Travel
The best things to do and see (or watch) in Europe this week
Smelly da Vinci, drug cartel musical ‘Emilia Pérez’, ‘The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power’ and Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds’ ‘Wild God’ – here’s what to consume in Europe this weekend.
Ciao! Welcome back for another friendly roundup of things to do, watch and hear this weekend and beyond.
While our focus has very much been on the Paralympics and 81st Venice Film Festival beginning – and everyone else’s on the Oasis reunion – September’s tilt towards Autumn also brings a breeze of new art shows and cinema releases ahead of awards season, along with some fantastic local festivals and events.
From Renaissance smells to drug cartel musicals, we’ve narrowed things down to the following.
Exhibitions
‘Leonardo da Vinci and the Perfumes of the Renaissance’ at the Château du Clos Lucé (Amboise, France)
Leonardo da Vinci was known for being great at many things – but how many of you would name fragrance creation and collection among them? An exhibition in central France is highlighting this little-known fact about the 15th century Italian polymath, inviting guests to experience an “olfactory and immersive journey into the world of Renaissance perfumes, following the intertwined destinies of Leonardo da Vinci and his mother Caterina.”
It includes six sensory spaces, where visitors can sniff out what it might have been like to wander through the courts of Venice, Florence and Milan in the very times that Da Vinci himself once did. There are also over 60 of his reconstructed works of art and objects to on display, including the necklace from ‘Lady with an Ermine’. Unlike a lot of immersive exhibits, this is a truly multi-sensory event that’s cleverly constructed to uncover fascinating and previously unrecognised elements of Da Vinci’s works. It also highlights a growing trend in the use of scents at exhibitions to instigate a more intimate, revealing and inclusive encounter with art. See (and smell) it soon – closing on the 15 September 2024.
‘LAIKA: Frame x Frame’ at the BFI Southbank (London, UK)
For fans of Coraline and ParaNorman, the BFI’s new(ish – it opened 12 August) exhibition is a must. Dedicated to the award-winning stop-motion animation company LAIKA, who worked on the aforementioned films and others like Kubo and the Two Strings and The Boxtrolls, it showcases the armature-arousing intricacy of their creations and delves into the stories behind them. It’s also free – and being presented alongside a season celebrating stop motion animation in cinema. Just don’t leave with buttons for eyes.
Festivals and events
‘Jazz in the Park’ (Transylvania, Romania)
As if the fairytale-esque setting of Transylvania’s Ethnographic Park couldn’t be any more magical, it will be host to an annual jazz festival from 30-1 September. Limited to 7,000 people per day, it’s very much a community event that sees nearly every local getting involved and the entire village becoming a glowing hub of creativity and support. In 2019, it even won the title of Europe’s Best Small Festival at the European Festival Awards. This year, there will be 40 concerts across four stages, along with six delicious restaurants to try, workshops to take part in and much more. Find tickets here.
‘ALL CAPS’ (Rotterdam, Netherlands)
Paint the town red! And blue, and green, and all the colours because one of the world’s biggest street art festivals returns from 1 September to 8 September in Rotterdam’s Beverwaard district. Running for the past six years, the event sees everything from walls to cars painted with murals by incredible international artists, the neighbourhood transformed by an explosion of creativity and character. There will be music and food too, plus entry is free!
Movies
Public service announcement: UK-based readers – a reminder that it’s National Cinema Day on 31 August. The initiative, which was started by Cinema First, the Film Distributors’ Association and the UK Cinema Association in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic to encourage people back to the big screen, it sees over 630 cinemas across the country selling tickets for just £4. In other words, there was never a better time or excuse to cancel all pre-existing plans and watch movies all day.
Emilia Pérez
A Spanish-language melodrama/musical about a Mexican cartel boss called Manitas (Karla Sofía Gascón) that wants to become a woman, it’s hard to imagine how such an audacious idea could actually work. But it does, with French director Jacques Audiard delivering “a bold and brilliant swing for the fences, a perfectly orchestrated folly with a fully realised vision that never plays it safe,” according to Euronews Culture’s David Mouriquand, who reviewed the film following its premiere at Cannes this year where Gascón and the principle female cast shared the best actress prize. The cast also includes Selena Gomez as Manitas’ wife, and Zoé Saldaña as the lawyer he kidnaps and tasks with finding a doctor to perform the desired surgical procedures.
Venice Film Festival 2024
The 81st Venice Film Festival is officially underway, having opened with Tim Burton’s Beetlejuice Beetlejuice on the 28 August (read the review for that one here). Known as the awards season whisperer, its line-up is richly varied (and a little bit steamy), with some of the most anticipated movies both inside and outside of Competition, including Pedro Almodóvar’s The Room Next Door, Todd Phillips’ Joker: Folie à Deux, Luca Guadagnino’s Queer and Athina Rachel Tsangari’s period drama Harvest. Stay tuned to Euronews Culture for all reviews and news updates from the Lido – including our latest review for Pablo Larraín’s Maria Callas biopic, starring Angelina Jolie.
TV show
The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power (Prime Video)
It was, quite possibly, Amazon’s biggest ever gamble: the first season of ‘The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power’, which premiered in 2022, had a budget of $1 billion (roughly €898,425 million) making it the most expensive TV show ever made. Did it pay off? Well, viewership was high and reviews generally positive, with Euronews Culture’s Giulia Carbonaro writing, “it manages to recreate an entire world – universe, if you like – of epic proportions that feels realistic and lived-in” but also noting, ” it falls into the trap of giving us what we already know and love, instead of bringing something truly original to the table.”
Now, after a long interlude, the second season has arrived and continues to unfurl the events of the fabled Second Age of J.R.R. Tolkien’s Middle-earth. While not all those who wander are lost, this show does have a tendency to dilly-dally in its own spectacle – we’re hoping it leads to some more eventful storylines this time around, especially considering the wait time!
Music
Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds: Wild God
It’s been a good year for Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds fans, with a TV adaptation in the works for Cave’s book “The Death Of Bunny Monro”, three major album anniversaries to celebrate, and now – finally – the release of the band’s 18th studio album ‘Wild God’.
“It’s a complicated record, but it’s also deeply and joyously infectious,” Cave said in a statement, adding: “There’s no fucking around with this record. When it hits, it hits. It lifts you. It moves you. I love that about it.” The album follows 2019’s ‘Ghosteen’ and shows, once again, the Seeds’ remarkable ability to continuously evolve their sounds in ever more interesting and deeply prophetic ways, while still touching on idiosyncratic familiarities. Read our full review here.
Travel
France saw record night train passengers in 2024, but can it keep up with booming demand?
Sleeper trains are undeniably the transport of the moment right now. New routes have received a flurry of media attention, and travellers are bumping a night on the rails to the top of their bucket lists.
In fact, passenger data from France suggests night trains could continue to see record traveller numbers – if only supply could meet the demand.
According to a recent report by French climate campaign group Réseau Action Climat, the biggest challenge facing the success of sleeper services is a lack of trains.
France’s night trains see record passengers in 2024
Night trains in France are on track to be one of the country’s most popular forms of transport. 2024 was a record year for the sleeper services, with more than a million passengers using them in France.
Night trains were 76 per cent full on average, and even more than 80 per cent full on the two main routes, Paris-Toulouse and Paris-Nice.
The line between Paris and Toulouse attracted nearly 100,000 additional passengers between 2019 and 2024 (growth of 64 per cent).
Night trains are becoming an increasingly popular option with business travellers, who made up 30 per cent of users in 2023.
On the only two international lines (Paris-Vienna and Paris-Berlin), passenger numbers were also high, despite numerous delays and a three-month suspension of services in 2024.
According to a survey by the Europe on Rails collective, 72 per cent of French people would be willing to take the night train if the ticket price was acceptable and the connection available.
France is struggling to meet night train demand
While these soaring passenger numbers should be a positive sign, France’s limited fleet of trains can’t cope with the demand.
In fact, this is forcing travellers to choose alternative, often more polluting forms of transport, or cancel their trip completely, the climate group’s report found.
To relieve congestion on existing lines and open new ones, it found, France needs to expand its fleet far beyond the current 129 sleeper cars.
Plus, lines need to expand to connect cities other than Paris to other European hubs.
Night trains are a multi-beneficial solution
The report stresses that getting night trains back on the right track would have multiple benefits.
Firstly, they are an effective way of connecting rural or isolated areas with cities without requiring passengers to change mid-journey.
Although longer than flying, night trains are also a more environmentally friendly way to get between Europe’s major cities.
Of the 10 main air links from France to the rest of Europe, at least six could be made by night train (Paris-Madrid, Paris-Barcelona, Paris-Milan, Paris-Rome, Nice-London, Paris-Venice).
Choosing a sleeper service over a high-speed TGV daytime equivalent can also save you money.
The night train from Paris to Toulouse, for example, starts at nearly €30 cheaper than the TGV, and you don’t need to pay for a night in a hotel.
How France can revolutionise its night train offering
The report proposes two options for expansion with a deadline of 2035.
The less ambitious goal is to reach a fleet of 340 sleeper cars, which would allow for the reopening of lines such as Paris-Barcelona or Nice-Strasbourg.
This scenario would make it possible to transport 3.6 million passengers and save 400,000 tonnes of CO2 equivalent, it says.
The more ambitious proposal is to expand to 600 cars, which is the fleet size recommended by the Ministry of Transport’s 2024 report on night trains.
This would allow for the reopening of lines such as Paris-Venice or Bordeaux-Lyon, making it possible to transport 5.8 million passengers and save 800,000 tonnes of CO2 equivalent.
By 2040, the report proposes an expansion to 1,200 cars, which would pave the way for international lines without going through Paris (e.g., Lyon-Rome, Nantes-Barcelona, Marseille-London).
These would carry 12 million passengers and save 2 million tons of CO2 equivalent.
“The record ridership in 2024 demonstrates the French people’s appetite for night trains,” Réseau Action Climat writes.
“Political will was there when it came to reversing the trend in 2020 and relaunching night lines. It is needed again today to change the scale.”
Travel
Facing a pilot shortage, Swiss cancels flights. Is this a sign of a wider European trend?
Travellers heading to or through Switzerland this summer may find themselves unexpectedly grounded.
The country’s national airline, Swiss, has confirmed it will cancel around 1,400 flights from now through October as it confronts an ongoing shortage of pilots.
The cuts will affect multiple short-haul routes from Zurich and Geneva, including flights across Europe. Some long-haul services, such as those to Shanghai and Chicago, will also operate less frequently.
And some routes, including its summer service to Hurghada in Egypt, have been suspended entirely.
What Swiss is doing to address the shortfall
Swiss says it ‘deeply regrets’ the situation and has introduced a range of short-term fixes to address its pilot shortage. Those include a voluntary retirement deferral program, a vacation buyback scheme and encouraging part-time pilots to increase hours.
The airline is also working with its pilot union, Aeropers, to improve roster flexibility and reduce last-minute, fatigue-related absences – all measures meant to help the national carrier alleviate its need for about 70 more full-time pilots.
Swiss has promised to notify passengers of changes as early as possible. Affected travellers will be rebooked on flights with Swiss, the Lufthansa Group, other carriers in the Star Alliance network or – in the worst-case scenario – any other available airline.
Passengers can also rebook or request a full refund.
Could this be Europe’s summer of cancellations?
Swiss is not the only airline facing turbulence. Carriers across Europe are trimming schedules and forming contingency plans to cope with a mounting shortage of cockpit crew.
KLM has publicly acknowledged difficulties staffing long-haul flights this summer, even though it claims to have more pilots than ever on its roster.
“Sick leave and part-time work have increased in recent years. We lose around 50 full-time jobs a year due to all the part-time work,” Eimerd Bult, head of KLM’s flight service, said last September, as reported by Dutch newspaper the Telegraaf.
Air France pilots are temporarily operating KLM flights on certain routes, including Amsterdam to New York, from July until October this year.
British Airways and easyJet, meanwhile, are aggressively recruiting new staff, battling one another with competitive perks to poach from their rivals and lure back retired pilots.
British Airways, for example, has offered to foot the bill for pilot training – which can cost as much as €100,000 – for up to 60 prospects per year.
This comes after the airline suspended several short-haul routes this summer, including flights from London Gatwick to Santorini and Mykonos, and select routes from Heathrow to Greece and Croatia.
Why are there so few pilots?
The pandemic paused new pilot training and accelerated retirements, a one-two punch the industry has yet to recover from. In the US alone, the FAA projects about 4,300 pilot retirements each year through 2042.
Europe faces a similar crunch. Although some airlines previously had long waiting lists for pilot slots, today they’re easing language and nationality requirements to widen the pool.
The problem isn’t just retirement, though. It’s the pipeline.
Boeing’s long-term outlook estimates that the world will need 674,000 new pilots over the next two decades. By 2032, consulting firm Oliver Wyman says the sector could lack nearly 80,000 pilots globally.
Europe alone could be 19,000 pilots short of demand.
What does this mean for summer flyers?
Travellers with short-haul bookings, especially those involving connections, should brace for disruption as European carriers thin their summer schedules.
Experts caution that these tighter schedules may result in fewer direct flights, longer layovers and more competition for seats. Travellers are advised to book early, allow extra time for transfers and monitor airline notifications closely.
Though rebooking and refund policies are in place, securing the best alternative could come down to how fast you move.
Travel
Europe wants seamless international train travel. Deutsche Bahn says it’s getting there
This autumn, Deutsche Bahn (DB), Germany’s national railway company, will begin rolling out a new digital infrastructure that it says will streamline international rail bookings.
The move is part of a long-awaited push to simplify travel across Europe’s patchwork of national railway networks.
“[You will] be able to book an international journey just as easily as a domestic one,” Michael Peterson, DB’s board member for long-distance transport, told German press agency DPA.
“This brings us closer to a major goal,” he continued: seamless cross-border rail travel across Europe, powered by a unified digital system and regulations backed by the EU.
What’s changing, and when?
Starting this autumn, DB will adopt a new data-sharing standard known as OSDM (Open Sales and Distribution Model). This EU-endorsed interface is intended to give European rail operators instant access to each other’s ticketing systems.
Using the OSDM as a framework, DB says it aims to offer integrated ticketing for virtually all major European railways by the end of 2026, including local transport, through its website and DB Navigator app.
Rail expert Jon Worth is quick to point out that this will not be a single ticket, but rather “a better way to stitch together tickets from different railways,” however.
DB will initially integrate with Austria and Switzerland’s national operators – the ÖBB and SBB, respectively – with other operators to follow in the coming months.
Currently, booking international train tickets through DB’s platform can be confusing, limited and, in many cases, expensive.
While passengers can already buy some cross-border tickets running through Germany, many popular routes still require piecing together fares from different companies or making sense of multiple national rail sites. No single rail provider can cover a journey from Berlin to Barcelona, for example.
Why does this matter?
Aside from convenience, the new system could begin to address a gap in passenger rights.
Currently, travellers using separate tickets for different legs of a cross-border trip risk losing protection if a delay causes a missed connection. Addressing this issue – and ensuring full passenger rights throughout the journey, including rebooking and reimbursement – is such a priority that European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen has made it a cornerstone of her second term.
“Cross-border train travel is still too difficult for many citizens,” she wrote in 2024.
“People should be able to use open booking systems to purchase trans-European journeys with several providers, without losing their right to reimbursement or compensatory travel.”
But such protection isn’t yet guaranteed.
Worth says that the OSDM doesn’t compel rail operators to sell unified tickets. It also doesn’t ensure consistent enforcement of passenger rights.
“What DB is doing is welcome for Germany, in particular, but it is insufficient,” he explains.
“To get genuine portals on which you can book any train anywhere in Europe, we need more than a technical standard – which is what DB is implementing, essentially – but [rather] binding rules for data sharing, commissions for ticket re-sale and better passenger rights if something goes wrong in a multi-operator rail journey.”
Cross-border rail travel still faces some friction
The initiative comes amid increasing pressure from Brussels.
EU Transport Commissioner Apostolos Tzitzikostas has said he plans to propose legislation to create unified platforms and make full passenger rights mandatory.
That’s causing some concern for DB – “already one of the best” rail operators in Europe, according to Worth.
Peterson warned that a digital standard other than the OSDM could undermine years of investment. “That costs money, that costs time,” he said.
Despite the lingering challenges, DB is optimistic. The company recently launched a direct high-speed ICE route between Berlin and Paris and plans further expansions.
In 2024, DB also saw a 22 per cent increase in cross-border ticket sales compared to pre-pandemic levels – its best year yet.
Now, with better tools, more collaboration and upcoming legislation, Europe’s railways could finally begin to catch up with the expectations of climate-conscious travellers – and deliver on the promise of a truly connected continent.
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