Travel
‘It’s not our aim to become rich’: Inside European Sleeper’s turbulent first season of night trains
Europe’s night trains face cut-throat competition from budget airlines.
Sarah and Sonia pile out of a rain-smattered train at Berlin Central Station, surprised they feel so rested after sleeping on Europe’s newest night train service, but also over an hour late.
“When you see the beds, they don’t look like the most comfortable ones,” says Sarah, a midwifery student from Belgium. But, pulling on their rucksacks after their journey from Brussels, the friends feel ready for a weekend of sightseeing.
They travelled with European Sleeper, a Dutch-Belgian startup whose launch in May is part of a renaissance of night train travel.
The company says there’s demand for such services, which offer a lower-emissions alternative to airplanes for climate-conscious travellers, while bringing back some of the romance of an older and slower form of travel.
But the revival faces many obstacles, from securing funding and profits amid cut-throat competition from low-cost airlines, to running reliable services on Europe’s overcrowded and ageing rail network.
What’s holding Europe’s sleeper train renaissance back?
Sarah and Sonia’s train is a case in point. European Sleeper said it endured a time-consuming back and forth with national train operators to agree on timetables for its Brussels-to-Berlin service.
“It’s very bureaucratic and complicated,” Chris Engelsman, European Sleeper’s co-founder, told news agency Reuters.
The company also spent a year-and-a-half scouring Europe for second-hand sleeper train coaches to rent. The refurbished couchettes in off-white and faded red had cases of faulty power sockets and broken toilets as they transported more than 20,000 people over European Sleeper’s first summer season.
In extreme cases, last-minute technical faults forced the company to downgrade some passengers to overnight seats or cancel their tickets altogether.
“The main investment that we are looking for at the moment is in the rolling stock, because that is such a critical part of the whole business,” Engelsman said.
The company is hoping to raise €40-60 million to buy its own coaches, 10 times the amount it has raised so far from investors and crowdfunding.
Other operators are backed by government money, with Austria’s OBB leading the charge.
It is expanding its Nightjet network, which transported 1.5 million passengers last year, with sleeper carriages often booked out weeks in advance. Two new routes connecting Berlin with Paris and Brussels start from December.
OBB spent €720 million on 33 next-generation night trains, developed with Siemens Mobility.
“There is higher demand,” said Alberto Mazzola, executive director of the CER lobby representing European rail companies.
“But the main challenge is the business plan.”
Night trains face tough competition from low-cost airlines
Years of decline in Europe’s night train network coincided with the rise of low-cost airlines.
Today, a night train from Berlin to Zurich costs around €160 and takes over 12 hours. An easyJet flight between the two cities is much quicker, even including airport security, and costs less than half that.
Calculations by the Norwegian government underscore the profitability challenge. Last year it dampened hopes for a new route from Oslo to Copenhagen, saying it would have to spend up to €3.8 million a year in subsidies to offer tickets at a rate that travellers are prepared to pay.
“It’s not easy and it’s not our aim to become rich,” European Sleeper’s Engelsman said.
His company is nevertheless planning to expand, starting with the long-delayed extension of its line to Prague from March 2024. It is also eyeing an Amsterdam-to-Barcelona route.
Supporters of night trains are pushing for more state help to compete against budget airlines, such as a value-added tax exemption on cross-border routes and lower track access charges.
France said in September it would seek support for a minimum price on flights in the European Union to try to reduce airlines‘ contribution to climate change, which could also help.
Cost pressures aside, night train operators must navigate Europe’s ageing network of mismatched gauge systems and different languages.
At night, trains compete with freight traffic and construction works, and during the busy morning hours they vie for arrival slots at stations with commuter services.
Sarah and Sonia’s train, European Sleeper’s ES453 service, pulled in at 7.57am, one hour and nine minutes late.
Sonia didn’t mind, though: “We could sleep a bit longer.”
Travel
‘Leave them where they belong’: Bruges implores tourists to stop stealing cobblestones
Tourists have been caught smuggling all kinds of stolen souvenirs home from holidays, from artefacts picked up in Pompeii to sand from Italy’s famous pink beach on the island of Sardinia.
The Belgian city of Bruges is the latest victim of keepsake crime, but the item visitors have taken a fancy to is unexpected.
The city council has reported the theft of dozens of cobblestones from the city centre, and suspects tourists are the culprits.
Tourists suspected of pilfering Bruges’ cobblestones
Bruges’ cobblestones are increasingly being pilfered from well-known spots in the UNESCO-designated historic centre, public property councillor Franky Demon reported this week.
“At iconic locations such as Minnewater, Vismarkt, Markt and Gruuthusemuseum, it is estimated that 50 to 70 pieces of cobblestone disappear every month. And that number could be even higher,” Demon told press.
“The phenomenon increases significantly, especially during busy tourist periods such as spring and summer,” he added.
For this reason, authorities suspect visitors are pocketing the stone as souvenirs.
‘Leave that cobblestone where it belongs’
As well as damaging a valuable part of the city’s heritage, the stolen stones have created safety issues.
The gaps from removed stones present trip hazards for pedestrians – and are costly to repair.
“It’s unfortunate that our employees constantly have to go out to fix potholes and loose stones. This causes a lot of additional work and costs: about 200 euros per square metre of reconstruction,” explained Demon.
The councillor urged visitors to respect the historical environment of Bruges.
“We simply ask for respect. Anyone walking through Bruges crosses centuries of history. Leave that cobblestone where it belongs,” he said.
Bruges’ cobblestones are apparently not the only sought-after street souvenir.
Along the famous Paris-Roubaix cycling route, tourists are known to pilfer parts of the pavement.
While Rome’s iconic ‘sampietrini’ – cobblestones made of solidified lava – have also disappeared into suitcases over the years.
Travel
‘Inequality and infinite growth’: Canary Islands anti-tourism protests reignite amid record arrivals
This weekend, residents of Spain’s Canary Islands are coming out in force to protest against mass tourism.
People on the archipelago have been growing increasingly vocal about its struggles with visitor numbers.
Last year, locals held multiple protests to highlight overtourism’s strain on local infrastructure and housing availability. They look set to continue again this summer as residents say little has been done to tackle the problem.
Protests planned across Spain against overtourism
On Sunday, 18 May, residents of the Canary Islands will take to the streets to join protests organised by campaign group Canarias tiene un límite (The Canary Islands have a limit).
Demonstrations will be held on all the islands of the archipelago as well as in several cities across Spain.
Protests will begin at 11 am on the seven main Canary Islands – El Hierro, La Palma, La gomera, Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura – and at 12pm on mainland cities including Barcelona, Madrid and Valencia.
Residents in the German capital of Berlin are also planning to take to the streets in solidarity.
Why are residents of the Canary Islands protesting?
The organisers say they are protesting to oppose the current economic model “based on overtourism, speculation, inequality and the infinite growth on very limited land”.
Instead, they want a transition to a people-centred, environmentally responsible model that respects the archipelago’s ecological and social needs.
Specifically, they are calling for a halt to destructive hotel projects across the islands and the building of a motor circuit on Tenerife; a moratorium on new tourist developments; guaranteed access for residents to healthcare and housing; and a functional ecological tourist tax.
The group also wants the immediate introduction of measures to curb marine pollution and the creation of an environmental restoration law.
Canary Islands receive record number of tourists in March
Earlier this month, authorities announced that the Canary Islands received more than 1.55 million foreign visitors in March, up 0.9 per cent on the record set in the same month last year.
The figures were released by the Canary Islands National Statistics Institute (INE), which added that the total number of international tourists for the first quarter of 2025 was 4.36 million, an increase of 2.1 per cent year-on-year.
The tourist influx comes despite dozens of protests staged last year by Canary Island residents against mass tourism.
Similar demonstrations have already taken place this year. Over Easter, around 80,000 hospitality workers in Tenerife, La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro walked out in a dispute with unions over pay.
Travel
Crete earthquake: Is it safe to travel to the Greek island following tsunami warning?
A 6.0 magnitude earthquake struck off the coast of the Greek island of Crete early this morning, Wednesday 14 May.
Authorities issued a tsunami alert in the area shortly after the tremor, which was felt as far away as Israel, Syria and Egypt.
Tourists are being warned to stay away from coastal areas in the popular holiday spot.
Here is the latest travel information from the local government.
Tourists in Crete urged to move away from coastlines
The earthquake was at a depth of 35 kilometres with its epicentre near the islands of Kasos and Karpathos in the Aegean Sea.
Greece’s Ministry for Climate Crisis and Civil Protection issued a precautionary tsunami warning for the area, including the east coast of Crete and the island of Rhodes.
Authorities urged residents and tourists on the island to keep away from the coastline and move to higher ground.
“A magnitude 5.9 earthquake occurred 48km SE of Kasos. Risk of possible Tsunami in your area,” the Ministry posted on its X account this morning. The magnitude was later updated to 6.0.
“Move away from the coast immediately. Follow the instructions of Local Authorities.”
Samaria Gorge, one of Crete’s most popular hiking routes, is temporarily closed as officials check for any damage done to the route.
“The Natural Environment and Climate Change Organisation announces that due to the earthquake that occurred today south of Kasos, the gorge will remain closed to visitors in order to check the route for possible rockfalls,” authorities said. “A further announcement will be made late this afternoon.”
Crete earthquake: Is it safe to travel and am I entitled to compensation?
Foreign governments have not issued travel advisories as yet, so it is currently still considered safe to visit Greece and its islands.
This also means that, should you choose not to go ahead with your trip, you are unlikely to receive compensation.
Depending on your travel insurance policy, you may be able to receive a refund for some or all of your trip if it includes compensation for cancellations due to natural disasters. Check with your provider and read your terms and conditions carefully.
There have been no reports so far of injuries or major damage from the earthquake, but authorities are monitoring the situation closely and have warned people should remain vigilant.
If you are on holiday in or about to travel to Crete, Kasos or Karpathos, make sure you stay up to date with the latest information.
Crete and its surrounding region are considered one of Europe’s most seismically active zones.
In October 2021, a 6.3 magnitude earthquake shook the island just weeks after another tremor killed one person and injured several others.
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